Jewish Spain leaves no time for siesta

My passion for speaking Spanish, watching Flamenco, drinking Rioja, admiring artwork, walking a labyrinth of narrow streets, and inhaling the scent of orange blossoms intensifies on every visit to Spain.

These interests influenced my choice of careers as a Spanish teacher and travel writer. On repeated trips studying at the University of Salamanca, walking the Camino de Santiago, driving to Galician wine estates, vacationing in Mallorca and Marbella, experiencing spas in Bobadilla and Alicante, attending the Expo in Seville and the Olympics in Barcelona, the culture continues to fascinate me. It also prompts me to pay respect to my Jewish heritage by visiting Jewish communities and attempting to understand what happened there, if not ever comprehending why.

I visited Chamberí, Madrid’s old Jewish quarter (Judería Vieja), for the first time last November to have lunch at La Escudilla, the city’s only kosher restaurant. Its address on Calle de la Santísima Trinidad (Sacred Trinity Stret) and close to the Iglesia (Church) subway stop illustrates a common practice in Spain: after the Jews were expelled in 1492, Christians took over the former Jewish neighborhoods and Christianized the public sphere.

Viviana, the chef and owner, personally serves homemade Sephardic dishes: hummus, beets, eggplant, carrots, and a tomato-onion-cucumber salad followed by a bright, vegetable-studded couscous and a simple roast chicken. Skewered beef was served to a nearby table.

She suggested that I visit Beth Yaacov Synagogue, where I was told that the Jewish community numbers 3,000-4,000. If you go, make an appointment and take a passport for security checks.

Viviana also recommended the nearby Carnicería Elias, a kosher food store. When I arrived, it was closed for a mid-afternoon work break (2 or 3 pm to 5 pm) and I was reminded of the once-prevalent practice of siesta. Small shops are still shuttered in the afternoon, while large department stores like El Corte Inglés, where the Gourmet Department stocks kosher foods, remain open all day.