Welcoming fall with fresh greens and herbs

We look forward to the holidays with such joy and excitement — but by the time they are over, many of us have prepared so much food that we are ready for a break from all the special holiday cooking and baking.

This month is Cheshvan. The only thing that is special about it is that it contains absolutely no holidays, in stark contrast to its predecessor, Tishri. Perhaps it was designed to give us a rest.

Many call this month Mar-Cheshvan (the “bitter” month) for the same reason — there are no joyous holidays to inspire us, no sad, commemorative holidays to cause us to reflect. Except for Shabbat, there is no reason to celebrate anything this month. It’s a month of transition from the warmth of summer, the joy of the new year and the closeness of family to the chill of winter and weather that may keep us apart.

We could let all that depress us. No celebrations. The month is dark. We change the clocks and create even more darkness. The weather gets colder every day and we bundle up — the gloominess of winter is on its way.

But in a glass-half-full world, this can be a time to gather the family close and spend more time together before that first blizzard.

Rather than focus on the dark and cold ahead, try some new recipes for your family and with your family. Family cooking is a wonderful way to encourage good nutrition, to teach children safe cooking habits, and to spend time together. You can add some sweetness to the bitterest month or celebrate the delicious bitterness of some fresh greens and herbs as we welcome this holiday-less month and the approaching winter with open arms — well, some of us anyway.

Baby kale, apple, walnut salad with maple poppy dressing (Pareve)

Dressing:

3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

2 to 3 Tbsp. pure Grade A maple syrup or honey

2 tsp. Dijon-style mustard

1/4 cup finely diced red onion

1 Tbsp. finely minced shallot

1-1/2 tsp. poppy seeds

Tiny pinch kosher salt

1 turn freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. canola oil

SALAD:

2 Tbsp. canola oil

2 bunches baby kale, washed, dried and chopped if needed

3 to 4 apples, such as Honeycrisp, Fuji or Granny Smith (tart), thinly sliced or diced

1/3 cup sunflower seeds

1/2 cup walnuts or almonds, coarsely chopped

2/3 cup dried cranberries

Place the vinegar, maple syrup or honey, mustard, onion, shallot, poppy seeds, salt and pepper in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to mix all ingredients together. Set aside. Add the oil just before serving, cover and shake vigorously.

Wash the kale thoroughly and cut out the stems. Discard them. Chop the kale into bite-size pieces. Place in a large bowl and add 2 tablespoons of oil. Massage the kale until it softens just a bit. Add the apples, seeds, nuts and dried cranberries and mix well. Add the dressing, toss and serve. Makes about eight servings.

Roasted squash bisque with coconut cream and candied cashews (Pareve)

This recipe originally came from a professional chef who gives in-home lessons. I adapted it and changed it a bit to heighten the sweetness of the squashes.

1-1/2 cups butternut squash, cubed

1 cup delicata squash, cubed

1 cup acorn squash, cubed

2 to 3 tsp. kosher salt, to taste

6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 to 3 Tbsp. za’atar seasoning or garam masala (for a less spicy flavor, omit)

1 Spanish onion, diced

1 piece fresh ginger, 1-1/2 inches long, peeled and grated

4 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 (8-ounce) can full-fat coconut cream

3 cups vegetable stock

1 cup unsalted cashews

1/4 cup pure Grade B maple syrup

1 sprig fresh thyme or fresh thyme leaves, to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two rimmed baking sheets with foil and then parchment paper. Set aside.

Place the squash cubes in a large bowl. Add half the olive oil, the salt and the za’atar. Toss to coat. Place in a single layer on one of the prepared pans and place in the oven for 35 to 50 minutes, until tender and golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

While the squash is roasting, place the remaining olive oil in a large soup pot and warm over low heat. Add the diced onion, minced garlic and grated ginger, and stir frequently with a wooden spoon until the onions are softened and translucent, about 10 minutes.

While the soup is cooking, mix the cashews with 3 tablespoons of the maple syrup and place on the remaining prepared baking sheet. Place in the oven and roast until golden. Remove from the oven before they get too dark.

Add the roasted squash, coconut cream, vegetable stock and thyme sprig. Bring to a simmer, partially cover the pot and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool, remove the thyme sprig and then use an immersion blender to puree the soup until very smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings.

While the soup is cooking, mix the cashews with 3 tablespoons of the maple syrup and place on the remaining prepared baking sheet. Place in the oven and roast until golden. Remove from the oven before they get too dark.

Let cool and chop coarsely for garnish. Serve the soup with a sprinkle of the chopped, candied cashews and a drizzle of maple syrup, if you like. Serves 6 to 8.

Kid-friendly squash with orange juice and honey (Pareve or dairy)

1 lb. butternut squash, diced into 1-inch cubes

2 to 3 Tbsp. honey

1 Tbsp. light brown sugar

1/2 to 1 cup water

1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice or good-quality orange juice

1 to 2 Tbsp. butter or plant-based pareve butter

Place the sugar and honey in a medium, heavy saucepan. Add the water and stir to dissolve. Add the squash and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the water is just about gone, but not completely. Add the orange juice, mix well, partially cover and simmer until the squash is very soft.

Watch carefully. If needed, add more juice to avoid burning.

When done, there should be very little liquid in the pan and the squash should fall apart. Add the butter and mash, then whisk until very smooth. Taste, adjust the sugar or honey and serve. Serves 4 to 6.

Gingered sweet
potatoes and squash (Pareve)

1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cubed

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil

1 Tbsp. freshly grated ginger

5 Tbsp. pure maple syrup or dark brown sugar

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 cup walnuts or pecans, coarsely chopped

3/4 cup dried cranberries

Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and add a sheet of parchment paper. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the cubed potatoes and squash in a large bowl. Add the oil and toss to coat. Add the ginger, maple syrup and cinnamon and toss to coat. Add the cranberries and chopped nuts and toss. Pour onto the prepared baking sheet and scrape any liquid from the bowl over the vegetables.

Roast for 30 to 45 minutes, until golden and easily pierced. Serves 6 to 10.

Caramel cheesecake bites (Dairy)

Dough base:

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted or salted butter, softened

1 cup sugar, minus 2 Tbsp.

Pinch salt

1 large egg

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2 cups unbleached flour

Filling:

20 oz. jarred or canned dulce de leche, at room temperature

2 (8-ounce) packages brick-style cream cheese, softened

3 large eggs

2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with foil. Grease the foil. Leave an overhang at both ends. Bake 8 to 12 minutes.

Place the softened butter, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat at medium to high speed until pale and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Reduce the speed to low, then mix in the flour.

Press the dough into the pan and use a large, flat object, such as a smaller square baking pan or a large cup, to get an even, flat surface. Wash the mixing bowl and beater and dry thoroughly. Set aside.

Bake in the center of the oven until golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool completely in the pan on a rack. Do not turn off the oven.

Stir the dulce de leche sauce well, then spread 1-1/4 cups (reserve the remaining amount) evenly over the cookie base. Place in the fridge to chill for about 30 minutes or until very cold.

Place the cream cheese and [confirmed amount of sugar] in the bowl of the electric mixer and beat on medium speed for about 2 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.

Spoon the cream cheese mixture over the dulce de leche and smooth. Bake until the cheesecake is puffed and the edges are golden, 40 to 45 minutes.

Cool completely in the pan on a rack, then chill until cold, about 3 hours. Use the foil ends to help lift the bars from the pan.

Before serving, heat the remaining dulce de leche just until it reaches pouring consistency. Spread over the cooled bars. Or place in a plastic bag, snip a tiny corner and drizzle over the cooled bars. Chill for 30 minutes, or even overnight, before cutting.

Use a long knife dipped in hot water to cut the bars as desired. Makes 24 to 32 bars.

Note: You can sprinkle a tiny bit of sea salt on top of the dulce de leche drizzle. You can also drizzle white or dark chocolate.

Simple cranberry walnut bread with a hint of    orange (Dairy or pareve)

You can omit the nuts for a nut-free bread.

2 cups unbleached flour

1-1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1/2 tsp. salt

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

2 cups fresh, coarsely chopped cranberries

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

Grated zest of 1 orange

1/4 cup butter, melted

1 extra-large egg, beaten

Sparkling sugar for the top

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Set aside.

Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, nuts and chopped cranberries in a large bowl.

Combine the orange zest, juice and melted butter with enough water to make 3/4 cup. [Confirm when and how the beaten egg should be incorporated.]

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top and sprinkle generously with the sparkling sugar. Bake for 60 to 70 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack until almost completely cool.

Run a thin knife around the sides and invert onto a plate. Turn to have the top upright and serve.

Joni Schochett writes for The Jewish Star from her home in New England.