Traditional Shabbat dinner for modern times

There is nothing as wonderful to me as a “traditional” Shabbat dinner. But what does that even mean anymore?

While it once meant wine, challah, chicken soup, roasted chicken and more, now it may mean GF challah and a vegan meal. The foods have changed too much to cite here. But since Shabbat is more than the food, that idea of “traditional” in other ways has changed also; traditions change all the time, from generation to generation and even in-between.

My grandparents’ traditional Shabbat meant that my grandmother started cooking on Thursday morning making her lockshin and challot and stuffed hoelzel and maybe even her schmaltz and gribenes. On Friday she made chopped liver, chickens and brisket and cholent and more.

On Friday night we would arrive at her apartment and the festival began. There were 11 grandchildren and at least 10 adults (often there were more). The tables formed a “T,” the long part in the living room and the top along her long hallway. That meant we could not see my grandfather at the head of the table, but we could sure hear him. In fact, I think at times, the whole town could hear him as he sang Shabbat prayers in tunes from “the old country.” He then sang some songs in Yiddish and finally we could eat!

Those wonderful years ended too soon and my “traditions” changed as my mother took over. My mother was what she, herself, called an “adequate” cook. She really did not like cooking all that much, so those homemade challot and noodles, schmaltz and more were replaced with salads, vegetables and simpler fare. The challah came from a very good kosher bakery, but it was from a bakery and it was different.

There was no one to sing those songs anymore, so we went to synagogue after dinner for services and tea and sang there. The tea was served on china dishes and I got to sit with the adults and eat the fancy delicate pastries that came with the tea. These new traditions were not the old ones, but they became our traditions, nonetheless.

Something in me must have longed for the days of my childhood Shabbat dinners, because I found myself trying to recreate that ideal for my children. I made challah and chicken soup and more, and we sang songs while eating on my grandmother’s cream colored, Irish linen “Shabbat” tablecloth. This was a new tradition born from sweet memories of past ones.

Now my children are grown and we have yet more new traditions. Every Shabbat, my son-in-law serenades our daughter with Eishet Chayil. We bless all our children and our daughter and her husband bless their sons. To accommodate bedtime, dinner is often earlier than we are used to, but that, too, is part of this new tradition. Happily, my table can grow and we have a long L-shaped space for more family members and guests.

Someday, hopefully far down the road, my children will all create their own “traditional” Shabbat and will take from ours what will work for them. Still another way of celebrating will begin. “Traditional” Shabbat is an ever-changing concept that is the thread that holds generations together — past, present and future.

Vegetarian Chopped Liver (Pareve)

1/4 cup Canola oil

4 to 5 large onions, chopped (according to your love of onions)

5 shallots, chopped

1/2-1 lbs. mushrooms (we use a whole pound)

4 to 5 hard-boiled eggs

1/4 cup walnut halves

1/4 cup salted cashews

1 cup canned baby peas, drained

6 to 12 round snack style crackers (I use 12, but you may like fewer)

Seasonings such as onion and garlic powder, paprika, marjoram and thyme, to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet and add all but about 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onions and shallots and sauté until deep golden brown, but not burned. Heat another sauté pan and add the rest of the oil. Add the sliced mushrooms and sauté until all the liquid is reabsorbed, about 10 minutes and the mushrooms begin to turn golden. Add the mushrooms to the onion mixture and mix well. Place some crackers in the food processor and process until even, tiny crumbs. Add the nuts and pulse until the nuts are also, small and even. Put all the vegetables into the food processor. Pulse 2 to 3 times. Cut the eggs in half and add. Pulse until smooth, but not pasty. Add a bit of olive oil if too dry. Season with desired seasonings, to taste. Chill several hours or overnight. Check seasonings before serving. Makes about 3 cups.

Challah in a Pinch (Pareve)

This is a simple, unbraided pull apart challah that is delicious, light and fluffy and can work in a pinch when you forget. Only a total of 90 minutes rising time, and this recipe uses your bread machine to save time!

1 cup very warm water 110 to 115 degrees

1/4 cup canola or other neutral oil

2 extra large eggs

1 extra-large egg yolk

1-1/4 tsp. salt (I just use a mounded teaspoonful)

2 Tbsp. sugar (I use mounded tablespoonful)

4 to 4-1/2 cups bread flour

2-1/4 tsp instant rise yeast

1 stick Pareve margarine (Earth Balance) melted

OPTIONAL: Everything seasoning, chives, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, cinnamon/sugr

Place the water, eggs, yolk, oil, salt and sugar in the pan of the bread machine. Mix a bit to break up the yolks. Add the flour evenly over the liquid. Sprinkle the yeast over the flour. Place the pan in the machine and set the cycle to “homemade.” Set it to rest for 15 minutes, knead for 15 minutes, and rise for 1 hour.

When the bread is almost risen, melt the margarine in a deep, small bowl. Take a 10-inch (9-inch is fine) spring-form pan and brush lightly with melted margarine. Wrap the bottom and sides of the pan with foil to prevent the margarine from seeping out onto the oven.

Remove the dough pan from the machine and bring it to your work area close to the prepared pan. Gently deflate the dough and remove enough to make a small ball, about the size of a large ping pong ball. Dip about halfway into the melted margarine and place in the pan. Repeat until you have used all the dough. You should have about 12 to 18 balls, depending on the size you made. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and place in a very warm space. (I turn on the oven to 100 degrees and when it reaches that temp, I turn it off, open the door for a minute or two and then place the dough inside to rise. In a few minutes, I close the door GENTLY. Let rise for 30 to 45 minutes 30 is fine.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Brush the dough generously with the remaining margarine and place in the center of the preheated oven. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes or until the bread registers 195-200 degrees in the center. Remove from the oven and immediately brush with remaining margarine. Let cool, remove the sides of the pan and serve.

NOTE: You can sprinkle with seeds, cinnamon and sugar, or Everything Seasoning between the dough balls and before baking. I like some snipped fresh chives and parsley. Delicious!

Crunchy Asian Chicken Drumsticks (Meat)

A favorite with kids and adults alike. Best when there’s no company as sticky fingers are the norm!

SAUCE:

3-1/2 cups pineapple juice

1 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup tamari sauce

1/4 cup rice vinegar

2-1/2 Tbsp. fresh grated ginger

5 large cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup Sriracha sauce (Less or none for a less or non to spicy dish)

DRUMSTICKS:

18 to 24 chicken drumsticks, patted dry

3 to 4 extra-large egg whites beaten until frothy

3/4 cup unbleached flour or GF flour

4 Tbsp. tapioca or corn starch

1 Tbsp. salt, scant

1 tsp. black pepper

1 Tbsp. onion powder

FINISHING:

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, divided

Sesame seeds

Cooked jasmine or basmati rice

Line two rimmed baking sheets with foil and then parchment (saves clean-up) set aside.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Place the pineapple juice and all remaining sauce ingredients in a large pot. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, 15 to 20 minutes. Cover and set aside.

While the sauce is simmering, pat the chicken pieces dry and place on a plate.

Beat the egg whites in a large bowl just until frothy.

Whisk the flour, corn or tapioca starch, salt, pepper, and onion powder together in a large bowl.

Dip each drumstick into the egg whites, let the excess drip off and dredge in the flour. Place on the parchment evenly spaced apart. Alternating bone end to meat end for more space. Continue until all drumsticks are done.

Bake the drumsticks for 20 minutes, turning once.

While the drumsticks are baking, make the rice according to directions. Season as desired and, when cooked, add half the scallions and mix well.

After 20 minutes of baking, remove the pans from the oven and drizzle half the sauce evenly over the drumsticks. Carefully, using tongs, turn the drumsticks to coat them completely. Place back in the oven and bake another 15 to 20 minutes until deep mahogany. Sprinkle with half the sliced scallions and sesame seeds. Serve with the rice and the remaining sauce. Serves 6 to 12.

Maple Glazed Winter Vegetables with Roasted Garlic (Pareve)

This root veggie dish will get kids to eat their carrots!

2 heads garlic, cut in half crosswise and roasted

2 lbs. yams or sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into inch-thick slices, then quarters

2 lbs. butternut squash, peeled and cut into inch-thick slices, cut to size of yams

1 lbs. turnips, cut into inch-thick pieces, then in half

2 lbs. carrots, peeled and cut into inch-thick pieces

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 to 2 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger, to taste

4 Tbsp. (rounded) dark brown sugar, to taste

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1/3 cup Canola or Corn oil, divided

1/3 cup pure maple syrup, grade Dark Amber

Parsley and sesame seeds for garnish, if desired

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Cut the top ends off of the garlic bulbs and place on a piece of aluminum foil. Drizzle generously with olive oil and wrap the foil over the bulbs. Roast in the oven for about 40 to 50 minutes, until the garlic is soft and golden. When done, set aside and let cool. At some point while the veggies are roasting, remove the cloves from the skins, place in a small cup and discard skins. Set aside the garlic.

Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees.

Generously grease a large casserole dish.

Place the sweet potatoes, squash, turnips and carrots into it. Add about a quarter cup of water to the pan and drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons of oil. Cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 20 minutes until fork tender. Remove from oven and uncover carefully to avoid a steam burn.

Peel the ginger and, using a micro plane grater, grate about 1 to 2 teaspoons into a small bowl. Mix the ginger with 3 to 5 tablespoons of brown sugar. Add the orange juice and 2 tablespoons of oil and mix well. Add the maple syrup and whisk to emulsify. Scatter the roasted garlic over the veggies. Pour the glaze over the vegetables and toss gently to coat.

Place back in the oven and roast, uncovered, until the vegetables are golden and soft, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove once during roasting to mix gently. Replace in oven to finish roasting. Place on a serving platter and spoon any glaze over the veggies. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and minced fresh parsley, if desired. Serves 8 to 10.

Quick and Easy Jerusalem Kugel (Pareve)

This avoids the task of making your own caramel. The flavor is a bit different, but it is delicious and my kids prefer it to the traditional. And no burnt sugar!!

2/3 cup canola oil

1-1/4 cups dark brown sugar

4 extra-large eggs

1 tsp. salt

3/4 to 1 tsp. black pepper, more if you like it really hot

1 lbs. fine egg noodles

Spray a glass 9 or 10-inch round cake pan or 3 quart oblong baking pan generously with non-stick spray. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles as directed. Drain and place the noodles back into the pot. Add the one tablespoon of oil and mix well.

Place the sugar and remaining oil in a medium, heavy saucepan. Heat over medium heat until the sugar is melted, stirring almost constantly with a wooden spoon. Stir until a bubbly liquid caramel has formed. Immediately pour the caramel over the noodles and stir with the wooden spoon. Sprinkle the salt and pepper over the noodles and mix well. Let cool for 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time and mix well.

Pour into the prepared pan and bake at 350 degrees 60 to 90 minutes until golden and completely set. Serve hot or warm. Serves 8 to 12.

Write: Columnist@TheJewishStar.com