Kosher Kitchen

Cherries, one of summer’s premium delights

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When I was a kid, I always wanted the red lollipop, the one that was sure to be cherry. I even fought my brother for the red Lifesaver and feigned a cough so I could have cherry cough drops. Now, I eagerly wait for the short-lived cherry season during which gorgeous, black-red cherries arrive in the grocery stores. They appear in June and usually, by Labor Day or a bit after, are gone. But while they are here, I gobble them up and make everything with them that I possibly can.

I used to wonder why cherries were so expensive. A few years ago, they were six or seven dollars a pound and they rivaled the top spot for expensive fruits. They have come down a bit, but, after some research, I understand a bit more why these prized fruits are a bit pricier than most other fruits.

Seventy-percent of our cherries come from the Pacific Northwest and the major cherry producing region is the Cascade Mountains in Oregon. The trees, if left alone, would grow to about 50 feet in height, beyond the reach of harvesters, so they are vigorously and constantly pruned to 12 to 14 feet.

The trees are coddled and rigorously tended to keep away everything from insects to cherry-loving mice. Organic cherry orchards must do even more to keep their trees healthy and productive. Cherries require pollination by bees, so orchard owners usually rent thousands of hives for four to give days in the spring. And there is more…

Cherry trees require about four feet of water every season, and most of it must be applied just as the fruit starts to grow. Constant watering is expensive and requires more than just automated sprinkler systems. The systems that are used are micro timed and moisture sensitive.

In addition, if the cherries are not dried once fully grown, they will absorb the water and split, rendering them useless, so cherry groves hire helicopters to hover about 5 feet above the trees. The whirring blades blow the water off the fruit, but are gentle enough to leave the cherries on the trees for harvesting, Once the fruit is ripe and dry, the harvest requires 30 people per acre per day.

Cherries are fragile little treasures and must be consumed, processed or shipped immediately, thus even more people are needed. In the end, it costs about $7,000 to $10,000 per acre to grow cherries.

So, the next time you wonder why these glorious little orbs cost so much, remember the time and effort required to grow the perfect cherry and then ship it across the country.

FYI: Cherries are a great source of collagen which helps skin stay young. One cup of cherries has about 100 calories, 3 grams of fiber and 2 grams of protein. Cherries are beneficial in treating asthma and bronchitis, and the dark red flavonoids may help prevent cancer and heart disease.

Chicken or Salmon with Cherry Glaze (Pareve or Meat)

This sauce is great with either grilled salmon or any kind of chicken. You can baste chicken with the sauce during the last few minutes of cooking and then serve the sauce with the chicken to top rice or mashed potatoes.

1 large chicken cut into quarters or 8 pieces OR 6 boneless skinless chicken breasts OR 6 salmon steaks or salmon fillet to feed 6.

Tarragon, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, to taste

CHERRY SAUCE:

1 Tbsp. sugar

4 tsp. cornstarch

3 cups fresh black-red cherries, cut in half and pitted, then chopped

3/4 cup cherry pomegranate juice or plain pomegranate juice

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice (I love lime, but lemon works)

Salt and pepper to taste

OPTIONAL:

2 Tbsp. cherry brandy or Kirsch

Pinch cayenne pepper

Fresh tarragon leaves, finely minced

Brush the chicken or fish with the olive oil and season with tarragon, salt and pepper. Roast or broil or grill until almost done.

Meanwhile place the sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and pomegranate juice in a sauce pan. Stirring constantly, heat over medium heat until it begins to boil. Add the cherries and cook until thick and bubbly. Add the cherry brandy and mix well. Add cayenne and mustard to taste and let cool a bit. If you want to baste cooking food, divide the sauce using one-third for basting and the rest for serving.

Very Berry Fresh Cherry Crumble (Dairy or Pareve)

A dark and delicious dessert that looks gorgeous with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

4 cups pitted sweet cherries, rinsed

1 cup blackberries

1 cup blueberries

2 cup raspberries

4 to 5 Tbsp. cornstarch

1/2 cup sugar – more to taste

1 to 2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon, lime or orange juice

TOPPING*:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1 tsp. baking powder

1 extra large egg

1/2 stick butter or trans-fat free pareve margarine

OPTIONAL FOR TOPPING: 1/2 cup oats, shredded, unsweetened coconut, finely chopped almonds or finely chopped walnuts

(*If you like more topping, just double this recipe and you will get a crunchier crumble topping.)

OPTIONAL GARNISH: Vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt, soy ice cream or vanilla whipped cream.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Cut the cherries on half and remove all pits and stems. Place in a large bowl with the other washed and well-drained berries. Add the lemon juice and toss gently. Mix the sugar with the cornstarch and pour over berries. Add more sugar if the berries are too tart. Toss and pour into a 9x13 glass or ceramic baking dish. Set aside.

In another bowl, mix the flour, sugar, and baking powder. Gloved hands work best for this. Make a well and add the egg. Mix the flour/sugar into the egg and quickly mix until the mixture is blended and is in uniform grains about the size of orzo or rice. Gently spread handfuls of the mixture over the fruit so that the fruit is completely covered. Melt the butter or margarine and drizzle over the flour mixture.

Bake in oven until bubbly and golden brown, about 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool a bit and serve with vanilla “ice cream or pareve whipped topping. Serves 8 to 12.

Cherry Cream Cheese Brownies (Dairy)

1-3/4 cups halved, pitted dark, firm cherries

1 Tbsp. Kirsch or other cherry liqueur

5 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate

5 ounces dark sweet chocolate

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

4 extra large eggs

1 cup unbleached flour

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

OPTIONAL: 1 package chocolate chips (12 oz.)

Cream Cheese Swirl (Dairy)

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1/2 stick plus 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup sugar

1 tsp. almond extract

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2 Tbsp. unbleached flour

1 extra large egg

Heat the oven to 375 and grease a 9x13 pan. Set aside.

Pit and halve the cherries and place in a small bowl. Add the cherry liqueur, if desired, and mix. Set aside.

Place the chocolates, sugar and butter in a heavy to duty saucepan over a very low heat and stir until just completely melted. Set aside to cool slightly.

Break the eggs into the bowl of an electric mixer and beat until light and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes. When the eggs are very light, slowly pour in the cooled chocolate mixture. Add the vanilla. Mix until fully blended. Remove the bowl from the stand. Add the flour and baking powder and mix just until well blended. Add half the cherries and the liqueur. If you like, add the chocolate chips. Set aside.

FOR THE CREAM CHEESE:

Wash out the bowl of the electric mixer and place the softened cream cheese and butter in it. Whip until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the almond and vanilla extracts and the sugar. Add the egg and mix on high until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the stand. Add the rest of the cherries with any remaining liquid and the flour. Mix well.

Pour the chocolate brownie batter into a well-greased 9x13 pan. Drop the cream cheese mixture by spoonfuls evenly over the batter. Take a sharp knife and swirl it through the batter.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until just set. Let cool before cutting. Makes 12 to 24 brownies.

OPTIONAL: Top with cherries cooked with some cherry juice, sugar, and a bit of cornstarch for thickening. Drizzle with melted chocolate!

Cherry Peach Clafoutis (Dairy)

2 Tbsp. butter, melted

3 to 4 ripe, sweet peaches, not too large, cut in half, stone removed

3/4 to 1 lb. ripe sweet cherries, pits removed

OPTIONAL: 2 Tbsp. Kirsch liqueur or Amaretto

1/3 (generous) cup sugar plus 3 Tbsp. for sprinkling

1 cup whole milk

1/4 cup heavy cream

3 large eggs

1/2 cup unbleached flour

1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract

1/2 tsp. pure almond extract

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Melt the butter and pour into a cast iron frying pan (10-inch), a 10-inch, deep-dish pie plate or a 2-quart, deep baking dish.

Pit the cherries and place them in an even layer in the baking dish. Cut the peaches in half. Cut each half into two or three wedges. Set them among the cherries. Set aside.

Place the Kirsch, milk, cream, eggs, 1/3 cup sugar, flour, and extracts in a blender. Process on medium for 1 minute or until evenly blended. Pour the batter evenly and gently over the cherries. Place in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the remaining sugar evenly over the top. Place back in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean and the center jiggles just a bit. Remove from the oven and let cool. Serve directly from the pan. Serves 8 to 10.

Cherry Almond Muffins (Dairy)

2-1/2 cups flour

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1 stick butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

1 extra large egg

1 cup low-fat or regular sour cream

1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1/2 tsp. pure almond extract

2-1/4 cups fresh pitted cherries, cut in pieces about one-half inch

STREUSEL OPPING:

1/2 cup finely chopped almonds

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup melted butter

ALTERNATE TOPPINGS:

1 cup confectioner’s sugar

2 Tbsp. vanilla almond milk

1/4 tsp. pure almond extract

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a muffin tin with 12 paper muffin liners. Sift the flour, baking powder and soda in a large bowl.

Cream the butter and sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat until well blended. Add the sour cream and vanilla and almond extracts beat well.

Reduce the speed to the lowest possible and add the flour in two parts, blending after each addition. The batter will be thick. Remove the bowl from the stand and fold in the cherries. Divide among the 12 cups.

Mix the melted butter, almonds and sugar together and divide among the 12 muffins. Bake until cooked through, 13 to 16 minutes. Let cool.

NOTE: You can omit the streusel topping and use the following:

Alternate topping: Mix sugar and almond extract adding some almond milk if necessary to make a thick “drizzle.” Drizzle a spoonful of topping on each warm muffin.

Makes 12 muffins.