The Kosher Critic: Colbeh

By Zecharia Mehler

When I was first given the go ahead to begin work as the Jewish Star’s restaurant critic I found myself struggling to pick a restaurant for my inaugural review. Sure, there are dozens of truly amazing restaurants in the New York area to choose from but that was exactly my problem. I needed something more than just another place to get a great steak filet. I needed a restaurant that stands out amongst its peers as the kind of place that provides a dining experience rather than just serve as a place to grab a bite to eat. It was this search for individuality that brought me to Colbeh.

An Iranian friend who wanted me to sample some of her culture’s cuisine introduced me to Colbeh years ago. Back then Colbeh’s Manhattan restaurant was a small intimate location with no more than twelve tables. It was lit softly with candles and purple lights that emanated a gentle glow from runners along the ceiling. At the time Colbeh’s relative anonymity made for a quiet, almost private meal. Since then Colbeh’s popularity has grown and so has the restaurant itself. Having moved from its original location Colbeh has traded small and intimate for spacious and trendy. Walking into the new space at 32 W. 39th Street, I immediately noticed the difference in ambiance. The décor is described by Colbeh’s interior decorator as a “romantic rustic style.” An illuminated bar runs almost the length of the lower level. Thick wooden doors bring a warm natural feel to the restaurant and a backlit glass wall, filled with high-end wines, provides a modern flair. Now with over triple the capacity of the old restaurant, Colbeh has a full bar, private party room, second floor dining area, and even its own hookah lounge.

As soon as we sat down our waiter, Khalid and restaurant manager Simon approached us. “Would you like to order off menu or would you like us to bring you a selection tonight,” Simon asked?

“Bring me whatever you think I should try,” I told him. This was a challenge that Simon and Khalid responded to with enthusiasm, by creating each course as a meal unto itself. To start we were given a plethora of Middle Eastern appetizers. More traditional Persian dishes were also served like ghormeh-sabzi, an herbed stew that is often referred to as the national dish of Iran. Served over tahdig (crispy rice), ghormeh-sabzi is an elegantly flavored amalgam of beans, herbs and beef. I personally love the dish, but my fellow diners all thought it was a more acquired taste. Should you go to Colbeh I urge you to try it but, just in case you are looking for something a little simpler for the Ashkenazi palate, Colbeh also serves a stew called Gheimeh. It is made from lentils and braised beef and could be referred to as a gourmet Mediterranean cholent.

One thing to keep in mind as you eat is that though much of the food seems exotic, many of the dishes are Iranian versions of food that is very recognizable. For instance one of our appetizers, Gondi, described by the menu as chickpea and chicken balls, is essentially a Persian meatball. Gondi has a fantastic flavor that is mildly reminiscent of hummus and pairs well when actually dipped in hummus.

Our main course was a number of kebabs that Colbeh specializes in. The Joujeh kebab, a lemon and saffron marinated chicken, stands out. It was moist, tender and delicious and paired beautifully with the dilled basmati rice it came with. The Kebab Barg or cubed beef is a bit of a tougher cut of meat but it is so deftly seasoned that a little extra chewing is worth it. Especially note worthy is Colbeh’s Chilean sea bass kebab, which is simply one of the finest things I have ever eaten.

Along with the move to the new location Colbeh, like many kosher restaurants, broadened its menu to include sushi. While I know Persian cuisine and sushi are not necessarily a natural pairing, the sushi is of such a high quality as to justify the addition. Particularly good was the yellowtail and jalapeño and the spicy salmon, though they are not for those with a faint heart and delicate palate. After dinner we retired to the hookah lounge with its large leather couches and dim lighting to eat baklava, drink a jasmine black tea and smoke a refreshing mixture of lemon and mint hookah all of which were top notch.

What makes Colbeh a great restaurant is not just the food, but that they create a congenial atmosphere for their customers. The waiters are polite, knowledgeable and very service-oriented — an attitude that is not a given at kosher restaurants today. As we dined I closely watched the tables around me to see what kind of service they were getting; each was doted on by its waiter.

I will admit there is a piece of me that misses the intimate setting that Colbeh once occupied, but life is about growth and Colbeh has clearly grown, maturing in a way that makes it stand out in a city that is filled with high end kosher restaurants. In my opinion Colbeh is one of the finest kosher restaurant in New York and I would encourage anyone to experience it for him or herself.

Colbeh has locations in Manhattan, Queens, and Great Neck.

Zechariah Mehler specializes in marketing of kosher foods and is a staff writer for Kosher Today. Follow him on twitter @TheKosherCritic