The Kosher Critic: The Golden Age of Spanish wine?

When scholars gather to discuss Jewish history there is always a certain reverence paid to the Al Andalus, or Golden Age, that existed in Spanish Jewish culture between 711 and 1492 C.E. During this time arts and culture flourished on the Iberian Peninsula and Jews were free to pursue positions as educators, artists, philosophers and even hold political office. This era also marked the first time since the Babylonian exile that Jews were freely able to acculturate themselves into everyday society and make contributions that were not just noted but also respected. But as so many things do, the Golden Age came to an end when the Edict of Expulsion forcibly uprooted the vast majority of Spanish Jewry and scattered them about the Mediterranean.

Nowadays a tour of “Jewish Spain” consists of graveyards, graveyards, and more graveyards, with an occasional broken-down building thrown in to remind us of the culture that gave us the Rambam, Ravah and Yehuda Ha’levi. However, despite the crater left by the expulsion and the later inquisition, there is still a Jewish presence along the banks of the river Jucar: Elvi Wines. Elvi Wines is owned and operated by Dr. Moisés Cohen and his family. Dr. Cohen holds a degree in agricultural engineering and has used his advanced knowledge of viticulture to create some of the most innovative and unique wines offered on the kosher market.

I recently had the opportunity to sample a number of Eliv Wines and was surprised at not only the quality of their vino, but also the innovative methods they use to create them. Their most interesting brand is Ness, a sophisticated wine that utilizes cutting edge viticulture and wine making techniques to create a harmonious blend of a number of varietal grapes. The Ness Red, a blend of Tempranillo, Bobal, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, has a dark ruby color and a smoky aroma. When you drink it you are immediately hit with the flavor of tart cherries and left with a deep taste of citrus and oak. This wine carries with it heavy tannins and if you purchase a bottle I suggest giving it at least 45 minutes to breath. The Ness Blanco is a simpler blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Moscatel. The Blanco smells beautifully of citrus and has a buttery taste that feels round and full in the mouth, however, its acidic finish takes some getting used to.

The selections and brands provided by Elvi Wines is diverse and intriguing. It makes me believe there is hope for Jewish culture to have yet another Spanish Golden Age. 

Zechariah Mehler is a widely published food writer and expert in social marketing. Follow him on Twitter @thekoshercritic