Kosher Critic: Etc. Steakhouse of Teaneck

I believe that culinary speaking there is no pleasure, no rapture, no greater ecstasy then a well-prepared steak.

And though steak is such a quintessential menu item at almost all of the kosher New York meat restaurants I often times advocate that when eating out it is best to order something other then the steak. This is because despite the ability of many of these restaurants to cook a very tasty steak when you do a cost benefit analysis of your meal it seems excessive to spend upwards of $50 for a piece of meat you could easily cook yourself. However some restaurants stand out above others in preparing a steak so delectably delicious that the cost of the meal seems trivial by comparison. In my experience there is no restaurant that accomplishes this feat better than Etc. Steakhouse.

Etc. Steakhouse is a modestly sized restaurant nestled at 1409 Palisades Avenue near what could be referred to as Teaneck New Jersey's restaurant district. Etc. has a wonderfully classical atmosphere with just enough modernity to create a pleasantly hip ambiance. Because it is located outside of New York City Etc. is able to provide tables that are large enough to be comfortable to sit at and a dining room where you don't feel crammed next to your fellow diner. These features in addition to table cloths made from actual fabric and sturdy well made chairs make for an immediately comfortable dining setting.

From the first dish my meal at Etc. was impressive. I began with a duck confit crepe with a macerated strawberry salad. To me the flavor profile and execution of this dish fabulously encapsulated the ambitious and brilliant nature of Etc’s Executive Chef Seth Warshaw's menu. The duck was rich and fatty while the crepe was light with a hint of sweetness that combined very well with the tartness of the strawberries.

Though I was impressed by his first dish Chef Warshaw blew me away with his second a gnocchi with crimini mushrooms, braised beef cheek, peas and fried leeks all served in a light marrow broth. The marrow broth was rich and velvety in a way that coated the cheek, mushrooms, gnocchi and leek so that they all came together to create a beautiful combination of flavors and textures that was superbly robust while still being delicate.

As I said before Etc. Steakhouse is one of the few restaurants where I will advocate ordering the steak and the next dish I was served is why. I was given a mustard glazed hanger steak with a Yukon potato puree which was topped by peas carrots and a ground hanger ragu all of which were then accompanied by a balsamic reduction. The steak was expertly infused with mustard flavor that married so wonderfully with the potato puree and vegetables that it stands far and above many other meat dishes I have been served at other restaurants. What I like most was that this was not some ubiquitous steak unceremoniously plopped onto a plate but a well throughout well constructed dish that showed an abundance of creativity married with first-class technique.

This same skill was applied to several other dishes I sampled namely the chocolate rubbed short rib served with black rice and haricot vert and the Etc. steak with roasted potato salad and tarragon sauce. The latter was served with a roasted marrow and kishka that acted as an extremely clever union of traditional kosher food with French sensibilities. Each meat dish was prepared expertly and each dish had its own unique set of flavor and texture profiles that set each apart as a completely singular offering.

My experience at Etc was not just good in that I greatly enjoyed the food it was inspiring in that I found yet another kosher chef who is willing to push the boundaries of kosher food and experiment in a way that brings advancement to the kosher restaurant scene. What’s more is that this was not one of the standard big city restaurants that are so often found only in Manhattan but rather is a local restaurant with all the available parking and elbow room that suburban New Jersey has to offer. For any that live in the area around Etc. I would recommend you add it to your list of restaurants to frequent and for anyone else I would definitely suggest that you take the time to pay Etc. and its brilliant head chef a visit.

Zechariah Mehler is a widely published food writer and expert in social marketing. Follow him on Twitter @thekoshercritic