Barkan Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Issue of February 12, 2010/ 28 Shvat 5770

One of the reasons I love being a wine columnist is that I have an excuse to try the great wines that I write about. However, sometimes reality sets in and I realize that not everybody can spend $40 or $50 on a bottle of wine. In light of this, let me tell you about a wine that is supposed to be a “value wine.”

The Barkan Classic has been a staple for many caterers and restaurants for one main reason: lack of options. Barkan is one of the only wineries in Israel that still makes mevushal [cooked] wine, which is a requirement for U.S. kosher caterers and restaurants. There may be a second reason though: the wine could actually be worth the money.

Upon opening the bottle, there is only an ever-so-subtle element of fruit in the aroma. After about 15 minutes that all changes. An element of almost candy-like berry aromas flows through the palate. While the fruit taste is very forward, I detect a slight metallic hint. Not offensive for the wine, but certainly noticeable. The tannins are surprisingly strong for the style of wine. Not what I would have expected, given the fruit-forward nature of this dry red. Certainly, it is a pleasant surprise. However, as the wine continues to sit, the fruit flavors quickly fade on the palate, leaving a slight earthy texture.

While the wine is not particularly complex, it does have some intriguing qualities.

In my research, I’ve seen this bottle go for anywhere from $8.99 to $11.99. At $9.99, I would say it’s worth the price. However, as the price rises, you’re up against a higher level of wine. As you get into the low teens there is some stiff competition out there. At that point, you might want to rethink your choice.

The moral of the story: Restaurants and caterers may choose this wine because of its taste.

Adam Neustadter is a partner in decantiseael.com, has taught about wine and was a sales executive for Royal Wine Corporation for 15 years until his aliyah in 2006. He and his family live in Chashmonaim.