Tarts and pies: Thanksgiving’s sweet finale

Everyone loves Thanksgiving turkey and all the side dishes, and everyone is full after the feast — but everyone still waits for dessert, the final act of this scrumptious meal.

Pumpkin pie, pecan pie and, of course, apple pie top the popularity charts on this most traditional American day. But the Pilgrims never had a pecan, apple or pumpkin pie. In fact, they rarely used sugar, which had to be shipped across the Atlantic and was very expensive. It was also thought of as more of a medicine than a food! The Native peoples of the region already knew how to tap maple trees and boil the sap into maple sugar, but it is not clear that it was present at that feast.

Dessert at the first Thanksgiving was not what we think of as dessert. As far as historians can tell, it most likely consisted of seasonal fruits such as plums, grapes and berries. Some historians think there may have been a plum tart seasoned with rosemary and cinnamon. The crust, if there even was one, would have been made with stone-ground whole wheat flour and animal fat. Maybe the Pilgrims did not yet have the sweet tooth that we Americans have now.

There is no way to pinpoint the exact year pies became traditional Thanksgiving fare. For most of their history, pies were filled with meat, and the crusts were thick, hard and inedible — more containers than food, meant to soften in the juices of the meat and vegetables. By the late 1700s, one American cookbook listed a few sweet pies, and crusts had been thinned and refined a bit, but they were still best suited to savory foods. So how did we go from that to a dish that became the centerpiece of “Waitress,” a hit Broadway musical?

Believe it or not, pumpkin pie was already a Thanksgiving fixture by the 1800s, while pecan pie didn’t catch on nationally until the 20th century. Whatever the “tipping point,” pies became popular and have remained the number-one dessert choice on Thanksgiving ever since. So, is it pumpkin pie? Apple pie? Pecan pie? What is your favorite? Whatever it is, be sure to save room for dessert. I am sure it will be spectacular!

Apple Ginger Cranberry Pie in Iced Vodka Crust (Pareve)

Ice-cold vodka makes a flaky, delicious crust.

CRUST:

2-1/2 cups unbleached flour

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. salt

1-1/2 sticks pareve trans-fat-free margarine, chilled

1/2 cup very chilled solid shortening (you can use trans-fat-free)

1/4 cup frozen vodka (place the vodka in a cup in the freezer for about 30 minutes)

1/4 cup ice-cold water (add 1/4 cup water to 3 ice cubes, let stand 10 minutes, discard the ice and measure 1/4 cup water)

FILLING:

3 pounds baking apples such as Northern Spy, Cortland, Baldwin or a mix

1 cup fresh large cranberries

1/4 cup unbleached flour

3/4 cup sugar, more or less depending on how tart or sweet you want the pie

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/4 tsp. nutmeg

1/4 tsp. allspice

3 Tbsp. crystallized ginger

2 Tbsp. pareve plant butter, cut into small pieces

1 Tbsp. melted plant butter

1 to 2 Tbsp. Demerara sugar

CRUST: Place half the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse once to blend. Add the chilled margarine and shortening and pulse until the dough spins around in a solid mass. Add the rest of the flour, sugar and salt and pulse until the dough is broken up, about 4 to 7 pulses.

Remove the top, scrape down the sides, and pour the iced vodka evenly over the dough. Replace the top, pour the iced water into the feed tube, and pulse several times to blend. When the dough holds together well, discard any remaining water. Place the dough on a clean surface, divide in half and form each half into a disc. Do not worry if the dough is a bit sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

When ready to make the pie, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. (Adjust the temperature for a convection oven.)

Flour a clean surface and remove one of the discs from the refrigerator. Place it on the flour and sprinkle the top with flour. Cover with parchment or waxed paper and roll the disc out, giving it a quarter turn frequently, to about 12 to 13 inches in diameter. Roll it up onto the rolling pin and unroll over a 10-inch pie plate. Ease gently into the pie plate and set aside.

Prepare the filling: Place the ginger in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until finely minced. Set aside.

Peel, core and slice the apples and place in a large bowl. Add the cranberries and toss. Place the flour, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and minced ginger in a small bowl and mix well. Sprinkle over the apples and toss to mix.

Mound the filling into the pie shell and dot with the plant butter pieces.

Roll out the second disc and cover the pie. Roll the edge of the bottom crust up over the top crust and crimp the edges. Cut 3 or 4 (2-inch) slashes in the top crust. Brush with melted plant butter and sprinkle with Demerara sugar. Place on a foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.

Bake for 60 to 75 minutes until golden and bubbly. Serves 8 to 10.

No-Bake Apple, Cranberry and Walnut Pie/Tart (Pareve)

A student in my 8 am English class once walked in and presented me with this recipe right before Thanksgiving. I made it, and it was a big hit! Now I make it for my gluten-free friends.

CRUST:

2-1/2 cups toasted walnuts

1-1/2 cups dates (Medjool work best)

FILLING:

4 to 5 firm apples such as Northern Spy, Fuji, Granny Smith or Cortland, or a mixture

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 cups water

1/4 cup pareve plant butter

1 cup unfiltered apple cider

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/4 tsp. allspice

2 Tbsp. honey or golden syrup

1/4 cup golden brown sugar or pure dark maple syrup

1/4 to 1/3 cup fresh cranberries

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the walnuts in a single layer on a cookie sheet and toast in the oven for about 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately pour onto a plate or into a bowl to cool.

When cool, place half the nuts and half the dates in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is evenly chopped but not minced. You should be able to see pieces of nut about the size of a baby pea. Squeeze a bit of the dough gently; if it holds together, it is done. If not, pulse a bit more. Repeat with the other half.

Press the dough firmly into a greased 9-inch pie plate or tart pan, pressing it up the sides. Refrigerate.

Peel, core and thinly slice the apples. Place in a large bowl, add the water and lemon juice and set aside.

Heat a large skillet. Add the plant butter and melt completely.

Drain the apples and toss with a paper towel to absorb excess water. Place in the skillet and stir to coat the apples. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly but very gently. Add the apple cider, cinnamon, allspice, honey, sugar or maple syrup and cranberries. Cook for 8 to 12 minutes, until the mixture begins to bubble, the apples are soft and the cranberries begin to burst.

Remove the apples and cranberries with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl to cool completely. You can cover and refrigerate them.

Continue to reduce the syrup, stirring often, until you have about 1/2 to 2/3 cup. Pour into a measuring cup with a spout and let cool completely. It will thicken as it cools.

Place the apples and cranberries in a colander to drain any liquid, then mound them evenly in the crust. Brush the syrup over the apples, drizzling any extra so you use all of it. Chill the tart and serve. Serves 8.

Pumpkin Pie (Pareve)

This is the best version I have ever made. It is creamy and delicious!

1 pareve frozen deep-dish pie crust

4 Tbsp. pareve plant butter, melted

2 cups pure pumpkin puree

3 extra-large eggs

1-2/3 cups unsweetened vanilla almond milk

1 cup dark brown sugar

2 Tbsp. unsulfured molasses

1-1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp. ground allspice

1/8 to 1/4 tsp. ground cloves

Tiny pinch salt

Prebake the pie crust according to package directions. Or line the frozen crust with parchment and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake in a preheated 425-degree oven for 7 to 9 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven and reduce the temperature to 375 degrees. Carefully discard the beans and remove the parchment. Prick the bottom of the crust about 10 times with a fork and return it to the oven for another 10 minutes or until lightly golden. Let cool.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Place all the filling ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix until smooth and well blended, about 3 minutes on medium speed.

Place the pie crust on a foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Pour the filling into the crust and bake for 45 to 60 minutes or until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool and refrigerate. May be made two days ahead. Serves 8 to 10.

Apricot Almond Bars (Pareve)

I often include a recipe like this because it is vegan as written and can be made gluten-free. You can also use sugar-free preserves to cut the sugar. Use any kind of preserves you like; I like plum and raspberry.

1 cup plant butter

3/4 cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1/2 tsp. pure almond extract

1-2/3 cups old-fashioned oats (not instant)

1/2 cup finely ground almonds or almond flour

1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unbleached flour

1 tsp. baking powder

Pinch salt

JAM FILLING:

1-3/4 to 2 cups apricot jam — regular, all-fruit, low-sugar or sugar-free

1/2 to 2/3 cup chopped or slivered almonds

Optional: 1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

2 Tbsp. Demerara sugar for sprinkling on top

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Melt the plant butter just until some solid remains, then stir to melt completely.

Place the sugar, extracts, oats, ground almonds, flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl and mix well. Add the melted plant butter and mix until the mixture is crumbly but well moistened. Press about two-thirds of the mixture into a 9-by-13-inch baking pan, reserving the rest. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Mix the jam with the coconut, if using, to soften it for spreading. You can also heat the jam in the microwave for about 30 seconds to soften.

Spread the jam over the cooled crust, then drop small pieces of the remaining dough over the jam to cover it almost completely. Sprinkle with the almonds and Demerara sugar. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. Makes 12 to 24 bars.

Upside-Down Cranberry  Walnut Cake (Pareve) 

4 cups fresh cranberries, washed well and patted about halfway dry

1 cup sugar

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

4 extra-large eggs

1 cup trans-fat-free vegetable shortening or other solid shortening

2 sticks pareve trans-fat-free margarine

2 cups sugar

2 cups flour

1-1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1/2 tsp. pure almond extract

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Grease the bottom of a 3-quart glass baking dish (a 9-by-13-inch Pyrex). Line with waxed paper that hangs over the two short ends of the dish. Lightly grease the waxed paper. Do not use nonstick spray for this.

Toss cranberries, 1 cup sugar and walnuts together in a bowl. Immediately spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the baking dish. Set aside.

In a mixer, beat the 2 cups sugar, margarine and shortening on high until light and fluffy, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition, and mix on medium until completely blended. Add the vanilla and almond extracts. Turn the mixer to very low and add the flour about 1/4 cup at a time until well incorporated. Turn the mixer to high for a few seconds to make sure the batter is smooth. The batter will be very thick. Carefully spoon the batter over the cranberries and gently smooth the top. I put dollops of batter over the berries and then connect them by spreading lightly with a knife.

Bake at 325 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the cake part comes out clean. You will be able to see the cranberries bubbling, and the cake will be golden brown on top. Let cool.

To serve, gently lift the waxed paper just a bit to loosen. Place a platter over the cake and invert the cake and platter together. Don’t move the baking dish; let the cake fall onto the platter, then gently lift off the baking dish. Slowly and gently pull off the waxed paper and put back any berries that stick to it. Decorate the platter with orange wedges, fresh cranberries or whole walnuts in the shell. Serves 12 or more.

Chocolate Chewies (Pareve)

This recipe is from the famed Gottlieb’s Bakery in Savannah, GA. While the bakery is gone, this recipe and many others are still available. Perfect for little ones and chocoholics of all ages.

12 oz. confectioners’ sugar (no scale? — box is about 16 oz., so use three-quarters of a box)

1/4 cup plus 1 to 2 Tbsp. (1-1/4 oz.) cocoa powder

2 Tbsp. unbleached flour

3 large egg whites

8 oz. chopped pecans (I used a mix of pecans and walnuts)

8 oz. pareve chocolate chips or chunks

Line two cookie sheets with parchment and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the sugar, cocoa and flour in the bowl of an electric mixer, off the stand, and mix with a fork until evenly blended. Return the bowl to the stand and add the egg whites one at a time, starting on low speed and increasing to medium as you add them. Scrape down the sides several times. When well blended, turn the mixer to high and beat for one full minute. Return to low speed, add the nuts and chips and blend well.

Drop by tablespoonfuls onto the parchment, 2 inches apart. Bake for 15 minutes, rotating the pans front to back halfway through. Let cool on the paper on a flat surface. Repeat with fresh parchment until all the dough is used.

Place the cooled cookies, still on the paper, in the freezer on a flat surface for one hour. (I put them back on the cooled cookie sheets.) Remove from the freezer, peel the cookies from the paper and store in an airtight container. Makes about 2 dozen.

Joni Schockett writes for The Jewish Star from her home in New England.